Fall Bulbs for Spring Color

The Walton County Master Gardeners are excited to partner with the Walton Tribune to bring you a monthly gardening column featuring research-based advice and seasonal tips from UGA Extension. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just getting started, we hope you’ll join the conversation.

School has begun, and fall is right around the corner. Spring-flowering bulbs are appearing on garden center shelves, but hold off planting them until night temperatures are consistently below 60 degrees. You can successfully plant them as late as December, but the longer you wait after October, the less able the bulbs will be to establish themselves to bloom. In Walton County, we are in Zone 8a, which means that most spring flowering bulbs are completely hardy in Georgia.

The term “bulb” refers to true bulbs and other bulb-like structures such as corms, tubers, tuberous roots and stems, and rhizomes. Their primary function is to store food to ensure the plant’s survival during adverse weather conditions. Distinguishing among these structures is important, since each is handled differently with respect to culture, propagation, and care.

Most spring-flowering bulbs prefer light shade to full sunshine. Try to select a site that provides at least 6 to 10 hours of direct light per day. Consider locating beds and plants where they will be aesthetically pleasing and effectively arranged in the landscape. Bulbs offer a certain magic to the landscape, especially when planted in a mass planting.

Always buy from a reputable dealer. Avoid bulbs that are soft, moldy, or discolored. Bulbs should be firm and have unblemished skin. There is a direct correlation between the quality of the bulb and the quality of the flower produced. Bargain bulbs are no bargain! If you cannot plant the bulbs right away, store them at around 60-65 degrees F. in a dry area.

Most bulbs prefer a moist, well-drained medium sandy loam that does not remain wet and sticky after heavy rain or dry out too quickly. A pH of 6.0 to 6.8 is best for most bulbs, and drainage is essential. If in doubt, test for drainage before planting. Dig a hole about a foot deep and fill it with water.

The next day, fill the hole with water again and see how long it remains. If the water drains away in 8 to 10 hours, the soil is sufficiently well drained to grow most bulbs.

If drainage is a problem or if the soil is too sandy or a heavy clay, you may need to use a soil amendment. Peat moss, bark, rotted sawdust, compost, perlite, vermiculite, coarse sand, and many other materials have been used successfully. The type of amendment needed depends on the structure and texture of the existing soil, drainage, and the type of bulbs to be grown. Spread several inches of material on the soil surface and thoroughly incorporate it before planting. In extreme cases, you may need to install drainage lines or construct raised beds to ensure good drainage.

Planting depth and space are very important to the success of the bulbs. A general rule of thumb for planting depth (from top of bulb to soil surface) is 2 to 3 times the greatest diameter for bulbs 2 inches or more in diameter, and three to four times the greatest diameter for smaller bulbs. Plant the bulbs upright (rhizomes and tuberous roots are usually planted on their sides), and press the soil firmly around them. Water the beds thoroughly to help settle the soil.

When transplanting, bulbs (daffodils and lilies) and corms (gladiolus and crocus) can be pulled apart gently. Tubers (potatoes and caladiums) and rhizomes (irises and cannas) may be cut into pieces, each division containing at least one eye. Tuberous roots (sweet potatoes and dahlias) can be split apart. Some tuberous roots, like dahlia, also require that a small piece of crown tissue remain attached.

Wash off any soil that clings to the bulb. The bulbs can be replanted immediately or stored for later planting. Store in a dry place away from sunlight, preferably at 60-65 degrees F. Be sure to provide good air circulation. Discard any bulbs that appear diseased.

There are two critical times to feed your bulbs. They need nutrients in the fall when they are planted and again in the spring when they have leaves. For every ten square feet of bed, sprinkle two cups of 10-10-10 fertilizer over the soil and dig it in as you prepare an area for planting. Use the same amount next spring when the leaves emerge. Special bulb fertilizers are available which do not force unneeded growth in fall but give bulbs the nutrients they need.

Mulches or ground covers may be necessary to ensure winter survival of some bulbs. They not only minimize winter injury, but also provide a background for little bulbs to show to better advantage. Mulch also prevents mud-spattering from heavy rains that frequently spoil the flowers. Pine straw, bark, fall leaves, and many other organic materials make satisfactory mulches for bulbs.

Use spring flowering bulbs to make an impact in your garden to produce a showstopping pop of color. For more information about how to select and handle the more commonly grown bulbs suitable for Georgia, go to UGA Extension Publication, Flowering Bulbs for Georgia Gardens Bulletin 918, or come see us at Grizzle Beer for our October Blooms & Brews garden talk on Tuesday, October 20, at 6:45 PM.

See you in the Garden!

The Georgia Master Gardener Extension Volunteer Program, through Walton County UGA Extension, trains and certifies volunteers in home horticulture and environmentally sound gardening practices. Under the leadership of Extension Agent Dr. Joel Burnsed, Walton County Master Gardeners educate the public through workshops, demonstrations, and community projects.

Our volunteers maintain three public demonstration gardens:

• Pollinator Sanctuary Garden at Friendship Park in Social Circle
• Vegetable Garden at the Walton County Senior Center
• Experiential Learning Garden at the Walton County Extension Office in Monroe

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